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The Pit Stop

From behind the counter of The Pit Stop in Merrick, Tony Rubano dispenses good cheer, lively conversation and delicious fare. It would, in fact, be a disservice to call the hearty soups, inventive wraps and salads and juicy burgers offered at this renovated Carvel shop "fast food." For while it's true that you won't have to wait long for your order to be filled, it's also evident that much time and care have gone into everything served.

Soups featured here are the same as those Rubano offers at Cucina Bay, the upscale waterfront Merrick restaurant he and his wife, Carolyn, also own. The creamy, herbal New England clam chowder, which, like all soups here, comes in a paper carton, contains a profusion of fresh clams. Potato leek soup is another lush treat. I thought the robust chicken gumbo very good, although not quite Cajun-spicy.

If you order the crab cake po' boy, know that the fine Japanese bread crumb-coated cakes are made with lots of jumbo lump crab meat, no bread filler. The veggie burger is house-made and wonderful, dotted with lots of bright, fresh vegetables. I ordered a hamburger one day, and was pleased that it was bigger and juicier than most fast-food burgers. An "all the way" burger -- two 4-ouncers with ketchup, pickle, lettuce, tomato, fried onions, bacon, cheese and coleslaw -- satisfied only part of the way because the meat was too well- done. Fries are homemade, and if they tend to be a trifle greasy at times, they're still irresistible. Sweet potato fries can be a bit soggy; ask to have yours crisp.

Salads are made with fresh greens and vibrant vegetables. A Cobb salad -- topped with chicken, crumbled bacon, Gorgonzola, avocado, hard- cooked eggs and deep-red tomatoes -- succeeded. I admired the color and creativity of the shrimp and scallop salad, warm seafood kebabs on wood skewers, over fresh beets and cubed butternut squash and greens, raspberry vinaigrette on the side. The problem was that the ingredients just didn't meld.

It is with wraps that Rubano goes to town. One of my favorites is the sprightly grilled shrimp, mango salsa and black beans. I .relished a surprising combo of roast turkey, mashed yams, Gorgonzola and avocado that worked well. So did the skirt steak wrap with grilled onions, greens and Gorgonzola. Grilled salmon with steamed vegetables and cucumber-dill dressing missed because the fish was overcooked. I'll request it less well-done next time.

I'll also be sure to sample the soft-serve ice cream, which Rubano says is high in butterfat content (more calories but also more richness and flavor). I did get to enjoy the chewy house-made chocolate chip cookies studded with big chunks of chocolate.

Those living in Merrick, Freeport and Bellmore might want to know that Rubano says the restaurant delivers.

And in more ways than one, I'd venture to add.

New York Times Article

Just Follow the Arrow
 By SUSAN M. NOVICK
Published: February 18, 2007

The Pit Stop in Merrick looks like a 1950s diner. Its red neon sign advertises "Good Eats!" with a beckoning arrow, and oversized plate-glass windows look out onto commercial traffic roaring past on Sunrise Highway. But once inside you'll find a menu that includes not only greasy-spoon fare but also sophisticated health-conscious offerings.

Tony Rubano, the longtime owner of Cucina Bay Restaurant in South Merrick, which is closed in winter, opened the Pit Stop six years ago as a year-round fast-food joint and winter home for his catering operation. In addition to featuring hot dogs ($2.25), hamburgers ($2.75) and cheese fries ($2.85), Mr. Rubano's eclectic menu includes turkey meat loaf ($4.95), eggplant rollatini ($5.95) and sesame tuna tataki salad ($10.75).

There is no table service; you order at the counter, where a sign asks that you place your order, step to the side and wait until your number is called. Everything here is made to order. We especially liked the grilled shrimp wrap with black bean mango salsa ($8.75) and the roast beet and apple salad with blue cheese crumble and candied walnuts ($8.50). Grab-and-go family-style dinners include rotisserie chicken and barbecued ribs with a choice of four sides, like creamed spinach, mashed potatoes, coleslaw and corn bread. A whole chicken with four sides, feeding two or three adults, is $13.95, and a full rack of ribs plus four sides is $22.95.

Whether you eat in (there is seating for 30), take out or order for delivery (available in Freeport, Merrick and Bellmore), it's mostly a paper-plates and plastic-utensils kind of place. But the variety of the menu sets this pit stop apart.

Long Island Press Article

When you're tired of playing lackey to the corporate interests or just plain Big Mac-ed out, head over to The Pit Stop, 50's-style drive-in retro-burger stand, where you'll find one of the best fast food burgers on Long Island. You may need help with the All the Way Burger ($3.95). Piled high are two patties, cheese, bacon, fried onions, Cole slaw, pickles, lettuce, tomato and ketchup. There's also an All The Way Doggie ($2.95) Don't cut out without the extra crispy fries or cheese fries. There's also soups, salads and wraps.
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